Each of Canada’s National Parks offers something spectacular, but there’s something especially hypnotizing about Pukaskwa National Park.
Comprising of nearly 2,000 square kilometres on the northwest shores of Lake Superior, Pukaskwa is wild, secluded, and the perfect setting for the ultimate adventure.
The rugged, 60-kilometre Coastal Hiking Trail presents a great challenge for avid backpackers: a point-to-point unmarked wilderness trail snaking through dense forests, along sandy stretches of the beach, and up and down (and up and down…) rocky terrain.
The trail is full of highs and lows—both literally and figuratively—and completing it can be a truly life-altering experience. Here are some of the emotions you’re likely to experience along the way.
Anticipation
As you bob up and down in a hired speedboat en route to the trailhead, you’re as excited as you’ve ever been. The anticipation is palpable.
You booked the permits. You attended the mandatory orientation. You packed your backpack, did your training, and studied the map inside and out—and now, you’re finally about to start what could very well be one of the best treks of your life.
Eagerness
As the boat disappears into the distance, you and your hiking mates are ready to finally get this show on the road. You hoot and holler as you take your first steps, perhaps pausing for a picture with the iconic red Parks Canada chairs before officially embarking on the hike.
Time passes relatively quickly and you recognize landmarks from trip reports you’ve read online. You feel as if you could possibly hike forever—maybe you’ll even finish the trail a day faster than you anticipated. In short, you’re unstoppable.
Humility
As you stumble your way into the first campsite, you’re feeling just a little humbled. The pep in your step has faded and you’re covered in a few dozen bug bites. Your shoulders are aching, your knees are creaking, and you hesitate to admit that you’re struggling to find energy to set up your tent and whip up some dinner.
As you lie in your sleeping bag and listen to the sounds of nature, a thought creeps into your mind: “I have to do this for how many more kilometres?!"
Hopefulness
It’s a new day, and breakfast at camp gives you just enough energy to renew your faith in yourself. Part of you wants to laze around camp, but the other part of you knows there’s a solid day of trekking ahead and the trails aren’t going to hike themselves. You pack your gear, lace up your (slightly smellier than yesterday) hiking boots, and get ready to give ‘er.
Curiosity
The hiking is tough, but it’s easy to distract yourself. With unmarked trails, you’re forced to stay alert the entire time to ensure you stay on the right track. On rocky outcroppings, you hop from cairn to cairn. You take in the rich smells, sights, and sounds of the woods, and you figure out how to cross streams and rivers as efficiently as possible. Signs of wildlife are everywhere, and you keep your eyes peeled for bears and other elusive critters.
You’re lightyears away from your phone, your computer, and your television—and yet you’re more entertained than you’ve ever been before.
Exhaustion
The high is fading—you’re spent. The bugs are starting to get to you, you could use a water refill, and the dehydrated muck you have planned for dinner isn’t quite up to par with the burger you’ve been daydreaming about for the last few k. It’s still light out, but you want nothing more than to crawl into your sleeping bag and pass out.
…until your buddy challenges you to run into the deceivingly cold Lake Superior. Suddenly, you feel alive again.
Elation
By now, you’ve acclimatized happily to trail life. Everyone knows their role, and setting up and breaking down camp happens almost automatically. You no longer hear phantom texts coming through, and you realize you have no idea what’s going on in the news—and you don’t really care.
Every night brings a new campsite, each more beautiful than the last. You could almost confuse the clear water and sandy beaches with a Sandals resort somewhere tropical (until, that is, you dip your toe in the water). You’re starting to think that you could do this forever.
Defeated
You wake up to the sound of rain—and lots of it. You stuff your soggy tent into your soggy backpack and realize you can’t see anything in the distance. So this is the Lake Superior fog you’ve been told about.
The day is fully of mucky trails and ultra slippery rocks—every kilometre takes twice as long to tackle. As a bonus, the rain seems to have made the mosquitos really come alive. You’re starting to miss your bed.
Accomplished
The feeling as you approach the suspension bridge is bittersweet. It’s been a long day and you know you’ll reach the end of the trail in just a short while now.
On the one hand, you’re excited about what awaits you: a hot meal, and refreshing shower, and a fresh change of dry, non-smelly clothes. On the other hand, you know you’ll miss the simplicity of trail life. You’re not sure if you’re ready for this experience to end.
As you stumble your way into Hattie Cove, you and your friends agree: a reunion hike a few years down the road is an absolute must.